Consumers: How to Negotiate Buying a Car
How to Negotiate Buying a Car (or Truck, Van, SUV, whatever). Information is power is money here.
Set your Goals:
#1. Pick a budget or top value for a car. Look at what the payments might be. Remember that the eventual sticker prices are not "out-the-door" which includes tax, license and lots of extras you might want, such as an extended warranty. Expect 10% overhead. So if you want a max of $30,000, your sticker price is about $26,995 (max).
#2. Unless you already know or have a financial rate, ensure one. Ask your bank what it can do for you for a new or used car (they are likely different rates). If you are willing to open an account at another bank in order to secure a much lower rate, check around. Credit unions usually provide good rates. (Example: OCTFCU provides 5.99% for new cars for all members).
Know your battlefield:
#3. If you can, decide on a car or few cars upfront. Do you want safety over size or performance over efficiency (gas savings)? If you need any help deciding, go to consumerreports.org (non-profit reviews) and buy the Car Buying Kit (about $40). This lets you plug in these values, and compare complete reports on your vehicles. You may find that two cars you thought were practically identical are very very different in ratings. On the used car side (cr has a used car buying kit also for less), you may find that one year is significantly cheaper than the next (or even the previous!). This car buying kit also prices your vehicle, showing all dealer kickbacks that actually would reduce your price, and even recommends a starting negotiation price.
#4. Prequalify your dealerships. Get the newspaper and check the ads. Since you may already know what you want, there's a good chance that some dealership somewhere in your area has a lost-leader they are advertising very low which happens to be the very vehicle you want. Call to see that they still have it or can make you the same exact deal. If not, see how the ads of the dealerships compare. If one is far over another, dismiss them from your first round of shopping. Keep the ads for the dealership.
#5. Shop by phone. Call up the dealerships and ask for the best salesman they have. He or she likely knows the best rates and all the options more than someone new. Then either specify the vehicle you already decided on or your budget (no secrets) on finding a car, even if that means deciding between a few vehicles. Then state that you are calling around different dealerships (and do, actually) and looking for best prices. Then state your findings from consumer reports. Finally, get a price or list of prices for vehicles that they have on site - so you can compare amongst dealerships.
** Many times, these top salesmen will say "I'll give that to you for (x) 'out-the-door.'" That means tax and license included (nothing else). So if that price, minus tax and license, is better than or near to your consumer reports starting negotiation value - you've just bypassed a lot of wasted time negotiating. Be happy - but still compare dealerships. AND, when you call other dealerships, tell them your best deal and ask if how they can compare.
#6. Compare the lists and choose a dealership and go. Test drive the vehicle if you haven't already (only need to do this once - not at every location) - it's just so you find that the vehicle isn't painful. But, don't get your heart set on it at all - and don't show that at all. This is the blood that the salesman-sharks feed upon. In fact, you might not even care what color the vehicle is since you can pay about $99 or $199 to repaint it. If they have a white car for $2500 less than a blue car due to alloy wheels you don't need or some other accessory, it doesn't matter - let them know so they don't get you sentimentally attached to a vehicle.
#7. Value-Compare cars on the lot that meet your description. Lets say you are comparing 3 used cars and you find that for every 25,000 miles used there is a $1,000 decrease. In other words, a car with 25,000 less than another is $1,000 more expensive than the other. Well, since cars generally last no more than 200,000 miles at the most, 25,000 is one eighth of the life of the vehicle. Unless the car is $7,000 vs $8,000, the less mileage is a much higher value than the cost.
Also consider accessories. If the difference between carA and carB is a DVD-player for $2,500, remember that there are after-market installations (such as from Best Buy or Good Guys) at a much less cost than from the dealership - and you get to pick your DVD player/viewer rather than the stock one.
What's most important about value-comparing is what you cannot get in the aftermarket, such as the extended warranty, or an automatic sliding door or seats that remember position. If these types of dealership-only items are valuable to you, then expect to pay the dealership for them - appropriately.
Special Note: Some dealerships really don't understand the concept of comparing cars. They want you to pick ONE car so they can "go to work for you," (which is like your boxing opponent saying that he'll be happy to hit himself for you). They want you to REALLY want a specific car so they can dangle it in front of you for more than the bottom-line.
#8. When you've selected your car, they bring out the 'let's make a deal' form so they can "go to work for you." They want you to make an offer. OK, start with the consumer reports starting negotiation value, minus $1000 (even if your budget is higher).
If they don't give you want you want (price or comparisons) or if you are getting uncomfortable, say thank you and simply walk away. If it is specifically about price, they may very well call you (IF they have your phone number) with your last offer as the final price. And even if not, there are LOTS of other dealerships - and your previous research shows that the next one was likely close in price to the starting value. And, if you REALLY have to, you can come back.
#9. (Bonus). Ask someone else who doesn't have a motivation to sell you something (like a previous customer who is in for servicing) what he or she paid. Let them know what the salesman is offering. You'll get an idea of how good the deal is in comparison. Oh, and ask why he or she is in for servicing to get an idea of the quality (should consumer reports not already provide that).
Finally, remember that you are the customer and you really can get what you want. You must be very happy with the process because that is the feeling you'll have for the life of the vehicle. If you start to feel that you're going to pay too much - you likely won't appreciate driving it later as much.
And always remember that you can walk away (even if you signed the "if you meet my offer, I'll definitely buy today" commitment area of the offer page. There is absolutely nothing binding about that at all - it's just there so they have a feeling that you are serious in wanted to buy a car and not just car-window shopping. But again, they cannot know that because there's nothing binding about that commitment on the offer page).
Once you have your vehicle, feeling like you've got a good deal goes a long way in your happiness and appreciation of the vehicle, certainly a lot longer than the new car smell (which by the way is toxic). Might want to test the windows on that test drive.
Good negotiating.
Set your Goals:
#1. Pick a budget or top value for a car. Look at what the payments might be. Remember that the eventual sticker prices are not "out-the-door" which includes tax, license and lots of extras you might want, such as an extended warranty. Expect 10% overhead. So if you want a max of $30,000, your sticker price is about $26,995 (max).
#2. Unless you already know or have a financial rate, ensure one. Ask your bank what it can do for you for a new or used car (they are likely different rates). If you are willing to open an account at another bank in order to secure a much lower rate, check around. Credit unions usually provide good rates. (Example: OCTFCU provides 5.99% for new cars for all members).
Know your battlefield:
#3. If you can, decide on a car or few cars upfront. Do you want safety over size or performance over efficiency (gas savings)? If you need any help deciding, go to consumerreports.org (non-profit reviews) and buy the Car Buying Kit (about $40). This lets you plug in these values, and compare complete reports on your vehicles. You may find that two cars you thought were practically identical are very very different in ratings. On the used car side (cr has a used car buying kit also for less), you may find that one year is significantly cheaper than the next (or even the previous!). This car buying kit also prices your vehicle, showing all dealer kickbacks that actually would reduce your price, and even recommends a starting negotiation price.
#4. Prequalify your dealerships. Get the newspaper and check the ads. Since you may already know what you want, there's a good chance that some dealership somewhere in your area has a lost-leader they are advertising very low which happens to be the very vehicle you want. Call to see that they still have it or can make you the same exact deal. If not, see how the ads of the dealerships compare. If one is far over another, dismiss them from your first round of shopping. Keep the ads for the dealership.
#5. Shop by phone. Call up the dealerships and ask for the best salesman they have. He or she likely knows the best rates and all the options more than someone new. Then either specify the vehicle you already decided on or your budget (no secrets) on finding a car, even if that means deciding between a few vehicles. Then state that you are calling around different dealerships (and do, actually) and looking for best prices. Then state your findings from consumer reports. Finally, get a price or list of prices for vehicles that they have on site - so you can compare amongst dealerships.
** Many times, these top salesmen will say "I'll give that to you for (x) 'out-the-door.'" That means tax and license included (nothing else). So if that price, minus tax and license, is better than or near to your consumer reports starting negotiation value - you've just bypassed a lot of wasted time negotiating. Be happy - but still compare dealerships. AND, when you call other dealerships, tell them your best deal and ask if how they can compare.
#6. Compare the lists and choose a dealership and go. Test drive the vehicle if you haven't already (only need to do this once - not at every location) - it's just so you find that the vehicle isn't painful. But, don't get your heart set on it at all - and don't show that at all. This is the blood that the salesman-sharks feed upon. In fact, you might not even care what color the vehicle is since you can pay about $99 or $199 to repaint it. If they have a white car for $2500 less than a blue car due to alloy wheels you don't need or some other accessory, it doesn't matter - let them know so they don't get you sentimentally attached to a vehicle.
#7. Value-Compare cars on the lot that meet your description. Lets say you are comparing 3 used cars and you find that for every 25,000 miles used there is a $1,000 decrease. In other words, a car with 25,000 less than another is $1,000 more expensive than the other. Well, since cars generally last no more than 200,000 miles at the most, 25,000 is one eighth of the life of the vehicle. Unless the car is $7,000 vs $8,000, the less mileage is a much higher value than the cost.
Also consider accessories. If the difference between carA and carB is a DVD-player for $2,500, remember that there are after-market installations (such as from Best Buy or Good Guys) at a much less cost than from the dealership - and you get to pick your DVD player/viewer rather than the stock one.
What's most important about value-comparing is what you cannot get in the aftermarket, such as the extended warranty, or an automatic sliding door or seats that remember position. If these types of dealership-only items are valuable to you, then expect to pay the dealership for them - appropriately.
Special Note: Some dealerships really don't understand the concept of comparing cars. They want you to pick ONE car so they can "go to work for you," (which is like your boxing opponent saying that he'll be happy to hit himself for you). They want you to REALLY want a specific car so they can dangle it in front of you for more than the bottom-line.
#8. When you've selected your car, they bring out the 'let's make a deal' form so they can "go to work for you." They want you to make an offer. OK, start with the consumer reports starting negotiation value, minus $1000 (even if your budget is higher).
If they don't give you want you want (price or comparisons) or if you are getting uncomfortable, say thank you and simply walk away. If it is specifically about price, they may very well call you (IF they have your phone number) with your last offer as the final price. And even if not, there are LOTS of other dealerships - and your previous research shows that the next one was likely close in price to the starting value. And, if you REALLY have to, you can come back.
#9. (Bonus). Ask someone else who doesn't have a motivation to sell you something (like a previous customer who is in for servicing) what he or she paid. Let them know what the salesman is offering. You'll get an idea of how good the deal is in comparison. Oh, and ask why he or she is in for servicing to get an idea of the quality (should consumer reports not already provide that).
Finally, remember that you are the customer and you really can get what you want. You must be very happy with the process because that is the feeling you'll have for the life of the vehicle. If you start to feel that you're going to pay too much - you likely won't appreciate driving it later as much.
And always remember that you can walk away (even if you signed the "if you meet my offer, I'll definitely buy today" commitment area of the offer page. There is absolutely nothing binding about that at all - it's just there so they have a feeling that you are serious in wanted to buy a car and not just car-window shopping. But again, they cannot know that because there's nothing binding about that commitment on the offer page).
Once you have your vehicle, feeling like you've got a good deal goes a long way in your happiness and appreciation of the vehicle, certainly a lot longer than the new car smell (which by the way is toxic). Might want to test the windows on that test drive.
Good negotiating.
